Arriving in Bulgaria

After the ordeal of our journey through Europe, a short stay with friends near to Veliko Turnovo was very welcome. We relaxed, helped to feed the pigs, goats, chickens and rabbits, and asked lots of questions about keeping livestock.

Feeling much refreshed, we set off to Palamartsa to find our rented accommodation. From the description we had we were not expecting much, so were delighted to find that we were to be staying in an old, but well-kept house near the outskirts of the village. We managed to meet up with our hosts, who were delightful. They had lots of phrases written in English, and fed us with fruit and snacks while we sorted out the formalities. They even presented us with a bottle of Rakia, which was delicious. The hot water is provided by lighting a fire under a tank and we have found this very economical; from one small fire we get enough hot water to do a clothes wash and for us each to have a shower. We have been so impressed with this method of getting hot water we are going to have one of these in our house when we find one.

Our first nights have been fairly sleepless, being woken up by flashes of light from outside, which I first thought might be someone in the garden with a torch, but have since realised are lightning strikes on the horizon and the constant thud of falling fruit from outside. One evening we were entertained by a couple of rats running across the grape vines; they stopped, fought for a few seconds until one of them fell off, then they both ran off into the garden undergrowth.

The house has a little balcony from which we have spent many lovely hours watching the many birds flying about, feeding in the fruit trees which surround the house. So far we have seen swallows, red-backed shrike, hoopoe, great tit, middle-spotted woodpecker, jay, house sparrows, nuthatch, nightingale, tawny pipet and magpies. The balcony has been a welcome escape from the seating area downstairs which all though the grapevines provide much wanted shade they also attract midges and mosquitoes. Note to self – don’t have seating beneath grape vines, especially in an encclosed courtyard! The still, damp air becomes a haven for flying, biting insects and we’ve both really suffered.

We’ve spent our time sorting out practicalities, like opening a Bulgarian bank account (which takes 45 days to clear a personal cheque!), buying sim cards for our phones, gas bottles for the camping stove and finding our way around. Our Bulgarian language lessons have been invaluable, and we’ve spent evenings chatting with Bulgarians in the village, as well as making friends among the expat community.

While we’ve been out and about we’ve really enjoyed all the life here. We’ve seen storks and Golden Orioles, weasels, loads of really interesting bugs, including one massive, unidentified one which kept dive-bombing me at the bar, dragon-flies and may-flies, European Hamsters and a couple of different types of lizard. And that’s been without even trying!

The weather has been changeable to say the least. We’ve baked in 35 degree heat, had thick mist in the village and been drowned by heavy summer thunderstorms which have turned roads into rivers.

Overall, we love this place and have decided to make Palamartsa our home. I think we’re still in holiday mode, but we are itching to get on with finding a house to call home and get on with our new lives.