We weren’t quite sure what to expect from a Christmas in Bulgaria. We’d researched about the traditions observed here and got a lot of different information, but still couldn’t find out what happened locally.
Most of our Bulgarian neighbours went to stay with their families in Popovo, so our neighbourhood felt quite deserted on Christmas Eve, with nobody about.
In the morning I had to go and help kill and dress the duck we’d ordered for dinner, which was quite an experience. There’s a lot of feathers in a duck! The cat got very excited when we got it home, and spend most of the time trying to get into the fridge with it.
I’d been asked to help out taking food and gifts to a nearby home for people with disabilities. I was very pleasantly surprised at how nice it was there; everywhere was clean, and the residents, who seemed to range from late teens to mid-seventies, seemed happy, well-fed and pleased to see us. We got given a guided tour from the manager, and some of the residents were anxious to show us their rooms, and all their belongings. A group of men from our village sang the traditional Christmas song of good wishes; more on that later!
Christmas Day started early with a group of carol singers, or Koledari, from the village coming round to sing us a song of good wishes, health and happiness for the coming year. We’d known about this, so were well prepared with sweets and chocolates for them, although now we know it happens on Christmas Day we can prepare better next year. Our nearest English neighbours had kindly invited us to have Christmas dinner with them, so after a lazy start we went round for a huge meal, and watched “Bugsy Malone” and a James Bond film, “The World is Not Enough”. They have a huge screen and a projector for watching films, so it felt just like being at the cinema, complete with rustling crisp packets, but more comfortable.
On Boxing Day we had been invited to a party by the Mayor of the village, Milcho, and his wife Youliana. They were thanking us for all the help we have given driving their groups of dancers and singers around to the local festivals. We had another huge meal, and got gifts from our hosts. Later on, a group of Koledari from Shumen, about an hours drive from here, came to bring blessings on the house and to wish much health and prosperity for the coming year. They stayed most of the night and entertained us with songs and stories.
Some of us expats even did a few turns, some joined in and I sang a Green Day song as a duet with our local guitar expert. For our expat finale, we all sang Merry Christmas by Slade. I’m not sure if Bulgarians know about karaoke, so not too sure how that went down! Дядо Коледа, Dyado Koleda, Father Christmas, came to visit with a fairy, I think, and handed out presents, accompanied by speeches from Youliana about how good everyone has been. Youliana had even got a friend in to translate for the English-speakers! We had a lovely evening, and were pleased that we’d been invited to be a part of this tradition.
Between Christmas and New Year we got a real change in the weather. It had been quite mild, but the temperatures plummeted to -16ºC during the night, and daytime temperatures of -10ºC. Just before that is had snowed about 15cm, so we had a really crispy, cold time of it! We have been very comfortable, keeping the fire going all day, and we’ve been out for the odd walk with the dog, Wally, who we are looking after. All work has come to a standstill, so we’ve been filling our time with playing games, reading and watching films on our limited bandwidth internet connection.
New Year’s Eve passed without incident, except for a huge box of fireworks that was lit on the green outside the house. We’ve no idea who it was, but it made for quite a display. I’m not sure where the Bulgarians get these military grade fireworks from, but they don’t half go bang! Apparently, a lot of the noise we could hear was gunfire from around the village, so that’s comforting to know.
On New Year’s Day people come around the village hitting you with a sprig of Cornelian Cherry.This is the first tree to show buds in Bulgaria, and is supposed to bring good luck for the year. They also have a chant that they say while you’re getting hit, blessing the house and garden for the year.
Apparently, Bulgarians celebrate New Year’s Day more than the Eve, and we’d been invited to two neighbours’ houses for food and drinks. We ate, drank, and danced around the table, and didn’t get home until after midnight. Somewhere along the line I seem to have ended up buying an accordion, which I’m really pleased about.
Looks like a grand festive season for you both!
sounds like a really happy Christmas and New year
warm and cozy, and far more simple than the money grabbing glitz and glitter season that it has become here
Happy New Year to you both !!!!
So interesting! Particularly like the ‘being hit with a stick’ part of the New Year tradition! Glad to hear about the accordian – hope you learn some new tunes and teach the locals some of yours! Happy New Year! Miriam xx
Aw! Lovely! I’ve thoroughly enjoyed looking at this (so professionally done too!) and I’m only just recovering from the picture of Steve with plaits!! Thanks loads.
What a wonderful experience for you two! It looks like great fun. Happy New Year! I wish you all the best in 2015.
Lovely! great to read, thanks!
It’s wonderful that you have been so warmly accepted in to the community. It seems that you had great fun over the festive season. I hope your water pipes are withstanding the cold! Is the sheepskin coat coming in to its own?
Hi Jenny, so far we’ve had no burst pipes so fingers crossed they hold up for when it gets really cold. The coat has been great for the few times we’ve been out and about, it really cuts out the icy wind.
I liked the “military grade fireworks” description. Having lived in UK for the last 11 years I have forgotten the sounds and smells for sure…. And yes the answer is: they get it from the military 🙂
A lovely read, thank you for sharing!